Ah, Paris, City of Light. . . not THIS time. Napoleon’s autopsy, the Catacombs (“The Empire of the Dead”), Père Lachaise Cemetery. And, ah, Rome, the Eternal City: more like it--"eternal" rather than "light". The Keats-Shelley House, where the second-greatest-ever English lyric poet died, the cat sanctuary where Julius Caesar was assassinated, the unusually decorated Capuchin crypt, Botticelli's tomb. There are places to see in these two wondrous cities. And there are. . . OTHER places to see.