There is plenty to see in Munich and Vienna and towns along the Danube. And then there are other things to see. Saintly relics. Crypts. Death masks. Heart burials. The scourge of the Spanish Flu, and suicide, on Vienna's leading painters.
And how did a public memorial to a prolific, late-Renaissance composer of motets and madrigals come to commemorate the death of a more modern, and scandalous, musician?
